Lost Coast Trail Yo-Yo Part 2: The Sinkyone Wilderness

Even though we had only traveled a modest 8.3 miles on the first day and 18.8 miles the second day, Fiona and I were feeling pretty wiped from the sun and sand.

We received our first bit of trail magic on Monday (Day 3) whilst walking up the hill to the general store to resupply. A kind older gentlemen asked if we wanted a ride up the road after I inquired about the precise location of the resupply point. We had a wonderful exchange about the beauty of the land and he dropped us off just down the street from the store.

There was still 2.5 miles of road walk left before we reached the Hidden Valley trailhead. The road was narrow but there was room to hop off to the side when cars passed. Not the best, not the worst.

When we reached Hidden Valley we were overjoyed with the tread of the trail. Solid ground, switchbacks and a steady climb had never seemed so speedy after two days of beautiful but challenging sand walking.

Chemise Mountain, our first peak was very dry was gorgeous views to the east and after a short ridge walk we descended precipitously back towards the ocean. The very steep descent offered some spectacular views of cliffs along the ocean.

Fiona discovered this giant millipede on the south side of Chemise Mountain.

It became quite obvious that the trail was taking on a new personality when we transitioned from the King Range National Conservation Area to the Sinkyone Willderness State Park. The nicely graded wide trail was replaced with an overgrown disappearing act.

Don't get me wrong, I love cross country travel, but yo-yoing through nettle, poison oak, pampas grass, thistle and blackberry definitely brought up a unique challenge. I should have brought more durable pants.

Our first stop in the Sinkyone was the Needle Rock visitors center. This gorgeous wooden house was being cared for by a delightful man named Rich who offered us warm showers on both visits to the center. We accepted his offer on the return trip.

The first dirt road section between between Needle Rock and Bear Harbor was deceptively easy and not at all representative of the trail further south.

The Sinkyone was magnificent and we were handsomely rewarded for our persistence.The seldom visited coves were like secret paradises and Fiona often related the landscape to her time in Hawaii. Lush forests, steep cliffs and a warm comforting breeze.

Bear Harbor, Wheeler and Little Jackass Creek were definite highlights. 

After a 23.4 mile day we arrived at Little Jackass Creek, our camp for the third night. On first inspection we were greeted with a grassy field interspersed with nettle. I don't like camping on grass because of condensation issues. I wasn't satisfied, so I went searching down the creek towards the ocean. My search was fruitful and I discovered one of the most gorgeous places I have ever been. The light was low in the cove while we were there so I didn't get any good photos. You'll just have to take my word for it or go there some day. A warm blow dryer-like wind gently funneled into the cove and we bed down in the sand after cleaning and drying ourselves in the breeze. Such a treat after a challenging up and down bushwhack filled day.

We had some good adventures that night including gusting wind that forced us into the shelter of a stand of alders surrounding the creek. After our retreat, Fiona woke up in the middle of the night to a tugging on her sleeping bag. A skunk was nibbling near her toes and when she slowly arose to confront it the skunks tail rose. Luckily, for all of us, that was the pinnacle of the excitement and the skunk slowly retreated without spraying.

Tuesday (Day 4) was the turning point of the trip geographically, physically and psychologically. Rich, from the Needle Rock visitors center had warned us that Usal, our turn around point and the southern terminus of the Lost Coast Trail, was a dump. He wasn't kidding. After descending a very exposed, very overgrown chaparral hillside down the south side of Timber Point in 90 degree heat, we were welcomed to Usal with trash and a law enforcement ranger who was ticketing three illegally parked cars. Fortunately we were hiking back and none of the vehicles were ours.

On the return trip north, the weather flipped to a colder foggier cycle but it was nice change. We knew that every nettle patch left would be a one time affair and our spirits began to soar. Fiona was battling some foot pain but it was nothing her badass self couldn't handle. We had stashed our bear canisters at Little Jackass Creek and traveled the 15 mile round trip with a little less weight. It was a nice break. I'm really not a fan of carrying those things but I was delighted by how well my Gossamer Gear Gorilla handled the canister.

We finished our day (19.5 miles) at Wheeler and were given quite the show by several grey whales as we observed from the cliffs hundreds of  feet above.

Wednesday (Day 5) was an exact 26.2 mile marathon and it felt great. A shower supplied by Rich at the Needle Rock visitors center, an enormous herd of Roosevelt Elk with some spectacular bulls, a scorching climb over Chemise Mountain extinguished by a beautiful cascading creek, ice cream, goat cheese, orange juice and greens at the general store during resupply were all highlights. 

The most excitement came in the last hour of our day as we raced the high tide to Buck Creek. We didn't get wet but we definitely found some adrenaline to fuel that last mile and a half. Time to rest.

By Thursday (Day 6) we only had 19.4 miles to hike back to Mattole and a good amount of spring break left so we decided to take it easy. Over the course of the 13.1 mile day between Buck Creek and Cooskie Creek we took a lot of time to explore, track, lounge and snack. It was delightful. Here are some highlights:

There were an incredible amount of bear tracks between Buck Creek and Shipman Creek.

Coyote Tracks

Otter Tracks

Lingcod

The yellow brick road across Miller Flat

Old growth driftwood

Beautiful rock hops across the creeks

The King Range and King's Peak

We celebrated our final night at the gorgeous Cooskie Creek. There was a meticulous clothing drying session and a giving of thanks for a safe journey. Challenging and rewarding this trip was a great success.

 

 Back at Mattole, the northern terminus, after the completion of the Lost Coast Trail Yo-yo (115.6 miles)

Lost Coast Trail Yo-Yo Part 1

Last year's Lost Coast adventure was so much fun we couldn't help ourselves but return for spring break once again. Read about the 2012 adventure here.

This year, the weather was forecasted to be absolutely spectacular and we weren't disappointed in the least. In fact, at times, the intense sun was too much; a rare occurrence on the Lost Coast. After seven hours of driving from the Central Coast of California, up to the shores of Humboldt County, we were more than ready to explore the seemingly ancient landscape of the Lost Coast.

My regular adventure buddy Fiona Maclean hiked with me for the full yo-yo and our friend Anthea Shore camped with us on our first night.  

It had been a year since I'd done any serious sand-walking and the footing took some getting used to. We were very happy to get up on the bluffs anytime the trail gave us the opportunity. It was good to see our old friend, the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. She had sheltered us on several blustery nights a year ago.

Tonight we were headed to Sea Lion Gulch to eat some dinner and wait out the high tide. The Sea Lions were their normal boisterous selves, roaring as they lounged on their sea-stack pedestals.

Once the tide had receded to a safe level, Anthea, Fiona and I made our way across a shoreline of boulder fields and a particular difficult pass just south of Sea Lion Gulch. The moon was bright and it was a perfect night for a night hike. Eventually, we made our way to Randall Creek, one of our favorites and bed down next to the calming sound of the cascade. That night we saw two river otters run amongst the shadows and into the water. I hoped that we would get a daytime viewing of these delightful creatures.

The next morning, we left Anthea at Randall creek and headed across the breathtaking Spanish Flat. Anthea was headed for King's Peak, where we had experienced quite the adventure last year.

This year, Spanish Flat was as splendid as ever. The Lupine, Poppy, Cow Parsnip and other wildflowers were at their peak. Fiona often remarked at the way the Lupine flowed down the hillside as if it were purple water.

It was an absolutely gorgeous day but we were both extremely exhausted by the time we reached Black Sands beach and Shelter Cove. The constant sand walking and the exposure from the sun had taken their toll. I was very grateful to have brought along my GoLite Chrome Dome. This reflective umbrella really took off some of the heat.

The pretzel on the back of my pack is a dried piece of Bull Kelp that I have fashioned into a Kelp Trumpet or "Kelpen Horn."

When we reached Shelter Cove we wandered up the hilly streets in search of our resupply at the general store. After feeling a bit hopeless in our search, we talked to some nice residents who were able to point us in the right direction. Unfortunately, the right direction was several miles up hill. We were beat and it was time to rest and regroup.

Our home for the night was a cozy little willow thicket next to a creek. It was quite a comfortable spot if it wasn't for the raging allergic responses that Fiona and I both experienced as a result of the willow pollen. While I lay down on the edge of dream land I couldn't help but think about the house we had passed earlier that day at Big Flat. It was the house of our dreams in the location of dreams.

Between the mountains and the sea, only accessible by plane or by foot, this property boasted a wood-fired hot tub, an orchard and other charming luxuries. "Anybody want to invite us over for dinner?" We'd be back in a few days on the second leg of the Yo-yo.

To be continued...

Exploring New Horizons Naturalist Hikes to Raise Scholarship Funds

Posted in: Newsletter | April 9, 2013 at 8:57 am

By Joshua “Bobcat” Stacy

This summer, I plan to hike from Canada to Mexico along the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail to raise money for the Exploring New Horizons Scholarship Fund. No student should be denied the chance to attend Exploring New Horizons because of financial constraints. Too many times I have heard teachers express their struggle to attend outdoor schools based on insufficient funding. Historically, Exploring New Horizons has provided a considerable amount of aid to schools in need, but we can do better.

Every $290 dollars donated will send another student to outdoor school. You can send flat donations or contribute by miles hiked. Every little bit helps. My goal is to raise $2,650, or one dollar per mile. My dream is go far beyond and raise much more than that. Donate now to help this dream become a reality.

As a Baltimore native I spent my childhood summers exploring the ancient hills of Maryland and Virginia, falling deeply in love with the earth. My curiosity was piqued in new ways and creativity took on a whole new meaning. I learned about the magic of tiny salamanders and expansive vistas. I learned the power of silence and the beauty of intentional community.

Since my summer as a wide-eyed ten year old attending Camp Catoctin, the lust for exploration has only strengthened. Whether it’s hiking Vermont’s Long Trail, playing the cello and touring extensively throughout the country, or working as an outdoor educator these past 13 years, the goal is always the same: a search for deeper connection with people and the earth. In 2012 I hiked all 2,184 miles of the Appalachian Trail. There is no greater teacher than the land and people are at their best when they find this connection. The more we feel connected to people or a place the better we will take care them.

As naturalists, we get to see children exceed expectations every week. There is nothing more heart lifting than watching a child experience the ocean for the first time. Every week I get to view the Pescadero Valley through new eyes as students rediscover their senses. Every week I am reminded of how grateful I am for the experiences and gifts I was given as a child. The gift of outdoor school should accessible to everyone. Our connection with the natural world helps us to be healthier, more creative and more peaceful people.

During my hike I’ll also be posting blog articles on various ecological and environmental issues. I am constantly reminded of the dynamic relationship between humans and the land. Mining, dams, railroads, small towns, industry, national parks, power plants and the forest service are all woven into our history as a country. Each one of these elements comes with its own complicated environmental issues. I am grateful for the observation and awareness skills I have developed during my years as a naturalist. I am excited to share my stories and musings about humans, flora, fauna and the like as I make my way along the Pacific Crest through numerous ecosystems.

Look for updates on my adventures on the Exploring New Horizons Blog.

Ukecello or Cellele?

Originally Posted: 05-26-12

I started playing the cello when I was four years old and since then it has been the most consistent part of my life. Music is a huge part of who I am and how I express myself in the world and when I thought about hiking the trail it became clear to me that the need for music had to be addressed. 

In the early stages of planning, I pondered the idea of hiking without an instrument and challenging myself to writing music in my head. I know that I am up to this challenge but there is the issue of how to share music with people along the trail. 

The more I thought about an instrument-free 5 months, the more anxious I became. Each time I discussed my thru-hike plans with friends, their number one question was, "what instrument will you bring on the trail?" When I told them "none" they looked at me skeptically.

Fortunately, since picking up the cello 25 years ago, I have also studied other less cumbersome instruments. In high school I started playing guitar so I could jam on pop tunes with friends. Then, when I was hired as a naturalist in California 7 years ago, I started playing the mandolin. And in the last few years I've been playing the Irish tenor banjo.

My newest instrument is a restrung tenor ukelele in cello tuning. The CGDA tuning allows me to utilize the cello fingering I had practiced for so long. A cello/mini guitar in a small package; seemingly the perfect instrument for the trail.

I have already conceded to the idea that this instrument may be destroyed by the time the trip is over. I am encouraged by the fact that my friend Ryan carried this very same model of uke, in standard tenor uke tuning, through Central America for several months a couple of years ago. Thank you Ryan for the inspiration!

I know this is going to be a weight concession in my attempts to go as lightweight as possible but the goal here is fun, not ultimate ultralight. I'm nearly certain this 1.5 pound package is going to bring me a lot of joy. I'll talk more about my gear choices in the next post.

Currently, I am working on a film score for Maria Lewis' documentary "Flood Year." You can check out my other music at www.joshuastacy.com

enjoy.

Why Flip-Flop?

Originally Posted: 05-23-12

For many years I have dreamed of doing a thru-hike of the Appalachian trail in the traditional sense, from south to north. I imagined the crowds in Georgia and the iconic finish atop Katahdin in Maine. But as it became clear that this was my time to hike the trail, a different itinerary started to emerge, the "head start" or the "flip flop."

My school year as a naturalist at Exploring New Horizons Outdoor School extends to the beginning of June. So, I was left with two big options. I could start in Maine and do a Southbound hike, or I could start in the middle. The more I thought about these options the more appealing the start in Harpers Ferry became. This itinerary would make it easier to attend the three weddings I am going to this summer (MD in June, CT in July and ME in August). Also this plan allowed me to fly to my parents house in Baltimore and spend a few days with them at the beginning and in the middle of the trip. Ironically, my time on the trail will allow me to see my folks with the greatest frequency in seven years, since moving to the San Francisco Bay Area. Plus, there's the weather and terrain advantage; hiking north through the hottest part of the year and heading south in the fall. Plus I'd get start on one of the easiest sections of trail. This plan was looking really appealing, organically emerging from my life.

Of course I do worry about the social breakup of a half NOBO, half SOBO hike. It is a little bit of a bummer to have break up the trip with a long bus ride and not finish atop Katahdin. All in all though, it seems like the plan I've chosen will be the best for me and it's going to be one hell of an adventure. Only a couple weeks more.

Less Than a Month

Originally Posted: 05-15-2012

I'm hoping to begin my Harpers Ferry to Maine, Harpers Ferry to Georgia thru-hike around the 8th of June and I couldn't be more excited. Life here in California, in the Santa Cruz Mountains has been absolutely wonderful the last few months and a lot of that has to do with this dream to hike the trail. This winter was one of the hardest times I can remember: a failed relationship, waning confidence and a general feeling of being lost. I remember sitting in my friend Jordan's house up in Marin County, during my lowest point in January. I started writing a list of all the things I could do with my life at that moment. I wrote down about 50 options when I finally came across the idea of thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail. It was a dream I have held onto since I hiked my first section of the AT as a nine year old. 

20 years ago, as a camper at Catoctin Quaker Camp, I hiked for three days on a portion of the trail from southern PA back to our camp in western MD. On that trip, I did my first 20 mile day and ever since that day I have been hooked on long distance hiking. The counselors and older campers on that trip helped me so much. They carried much of my gear and kept my hydrated and motivated through that very challenging day. Their kindness changed my life forever and sent me on my path as a mentor, outdoor educator and naturalist.

Ever since I came up with this plan to hike the AT, the world has seemed so hopeful. The excitement generated by this dream has jump started a revelatory path long before I have even set one foot on the trail. I can't wait to see what happens once I actually start walking.

Part of this joyful resurgence is also linked to a physical recovery which coincided with the decision to commit to this adventure. Two years ago, I suffered a very painful back injury which left me wondering if I would ever be able to do a long distance trip again. It was extremely disheartening to think that I would never again be able undertake the type of adventure that had brought me immense joy and inspiration in the past. In 2003 I hiked about 385 miles of the AT in VA, 2004 I hiked the northern half of the Long Trail and 2005 in I hiked about 300 miles in VA. Every one of these trips left me with a more positive outlook on life, a greater level of confidence and deeper connection with the earth. These trips also brought about a sense of hope and an appreciation for human kindness. I can't wait to see where my thoughts take me once I start the trail. I can't wait for new stories to unfold. 

The warm-up trip on the Lost Coast boosted my confidence in my back and I'm feeling strong. I can't wait to get started. Only a few more weeks.

LCT 2012: Warming Up

Originally posted: 04-29-2012

I just returned from a wonderful week with friends on California's Lost Coast Trail. It was my spring break and also a fantastic way to warm-up for my upcoming thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. I couldn't have asked for a better trip to get me psyched and confident for the AT.

The landscape was magical. Grey whales escorted us just offshore our entire time on the beach. The majority of the whales appeared to be mothers and calves on their return trip from Baja. There was also a plethora of tracks on the beach. Bear, coyote, bobcat, deer, skunk, shorebirds, egrets, ravens and otters were among the numerous species identified in the sand. In addition to tracks we also discovered hundreds of urchins and gumboot chiton washed up on the beach. There were even a few antlers and fragmented sea lion skulls to be found. 

Our trip began and ended at the Mattole trailhead. In the middle of this out and back hike, we decided to embark on the challenging and rewarding loop of King's Peak. This 4088 ft. mountain rises quickly from the ocean. I felt good; pushing, sweating and breathing my way to the top. At the summit we were enveloped by a cloud that soaked us during our entire stay atop the peak. It was very cold and wet. Winds must have reached 50 mph and my gear was certainly put to the test. My hammock skills didn't quite hold up to this kind of onslaught but I was able to stay warm enough. 

The return from the summit down the rattlesnake ridge trail was a definite highlight. We slowly came out of the cold as we dropped elevation, eventually landing in a lush steamy valley. The wild flowers were stunning (as they were much of the time on the coast itself) and the creek was pumping clear cool water down the mountain to the ocean. The creek crossings in this section were the most challenging of the trip but we were in great spirits having warmed up quite a bit.

That night we built a nice large bonfire and dried out. There would be more storms to come but nothing as trying as our experience on King's Peak.

Overall, the 6 day 5 night trip left me inspired, confident with my gear choices, and optimistic about the health of my body. I have been concerned about the lower back pain I've experienced over the last couple of years. Fortunately, on this trip, I felt strong and without pain. 

In just a little more than a month I'll be flying from my home in California back to my birth home in Baltimore. My plan is to leave from Harpers Ferry the first week of June and head north. After I reach Katahdin I'll return to Harpers Ferry and head south to Springer. I can't wait!

-Bobcat